Sunday, March 30, 2014

Research



It is no secret I love food, traveling, and architecture, but I also adore the academic world. The energy on a college campus is exciting and invigorating. So I was delighted to get to incorporate these elements with Maddie on some recent college visits. It has been a long, brutal winter getting away for a few days was a welcome change for both of us. 



While we were researching universities we did a little cupcake research as well at Georgetown Cupcake. The cupcakes are as pretty as they are delicious, with lots of flavors to choose from. I covet their pink bejeweled mixer.  

Traveling opens your mind to new places and ideas. You never know what is around the next corner which is what makes it so fun. The sunny yellow 'Peep' mobile made us smile. Surely it must mean spring is on the way.


Whether in a big city or a small town there is always beautiful and interesting architectural waiting to be admired.






When we travel we always try to eat at local establishments. The creamy crab soup at the Federal House Bar & Grille is so delicious I had to return a second time for more. 


At Sofi's Crepes savory or sweet crepes make a tasty snack or meal to satisfy either craving.




The ice cream at Annapolis Ice Cream Company is homemade on-site daily. There are so many tantalizing flavors to choose from it is truly hard to decide. After much deliberation Maddie picked chocolate Oreo, which the cute guy scooping the ice cream said was his favorite. I had blackberry cobbler that was loaded with cobbler. We were not disappointed with our choices we only wished we had time to return for more 'research'. 



The owner of the Boatyard Bar & Grill left a 30 year career in investment banking to open the restaurant. Have you ever wondered why so many great restaurants are started by people who have left other professions? I think it is because food brings such joy to life. When people are happy doing what they do you can't help but have great results. Being near an ocean doesn't hurt with a constant supply of fresh fish a stone's throw away. The crab cakes are a house specialty. They are chock-full of sweet, succulent crab.

A luminous sunset is the perfect ending to a fabulous meal. Well, that and an awesome dessert!


Thursday, March 13, 2014

Vanilla Macarons with Salted Butter Caramel Cream



The first time I had a French macaron I was vacationing in Paris with my late husband, Chris. We bought two large macarons, (a rookie mistake we would later remedy by buying the smaller versions so we could try more flavors) one pistachio and one vanilla, at Ladurée on rue Royale. We walked to the Tuileries garden and sat on a bench before removing our treats from the pretty green and gold bag. I remember my first bite. The thin crisp crust gave way to the soft, rich pistachio filling. I sat silently analyzing the flavors and textures stunned at the simple yet complex nature of this rare pastry.

Today French macarons are more available around the globe, but who wouldn't prefer going to Paris to get them? While I have never met a French pastry I didn't like, these little treats rank at the top of my favorites list.

I made macarons as part of the trio of desserts for Maddie and her friend's progressive dinner. French macarons are made with ground almonds, egg whites and sugar. There are two ways they can be made: mixing ground almonds with meringue or mixing ground almonds with Italian meringue, which is meringue made with boiled sugar syrup. Either method works, but I like the Italian meringue method best even though it is a little more work.


Finely ground almonds, confectioner's sugar, and egg whites are mixed together to make a paste.


Sugar syrup is boiled to between thread and soft-ball stage.


A 1/3 of the Italian meringue is stirred into the almond paste to lighten it. 



When all the Italian meringue is folded into the almond mixture the batter should be smooth and firm, but drip slowly from the spatula.

I really love silicon baking mats. Everything always seems to bake better when I use them. I did a little experiment by using silicone baking mats for half the macaron shells and parchment paper for the other half. The macaron shells baked on the silicone mats rose perfectly even and were very easy to remove once cooled. The macaron shells baked on the parchment did not rise as nicely and took a little more effort to remove from the parchment paper. If you have silicone baking mats definitely use them.


The secret to a true French macaron is the foot or 'pied' at the base. That is what sets it apart. Plus a smooth top with no cracks. The best way to achieve this is to let the macarons rest for 20-30 minutes before baking to form a skin on top. That way when they rise the skin will keep them from cracking. Also opening the oven door a couple times during baking allows steam to escape. They will still rise but not explode.


Traditional macarons are made with blanched almonds, so the shells have a uniform appearance. You can use regular almonds if you prefer. You can also use regular or blanched almond flour. I used almonds with skin for these macarons because I liked the color variation. If you grind your almonds make sure to grind them in a food processor until very fine. Remove any large chunks.

The recipe makes a lot of macaron shells. Depending upon the size it will yield approximately 7-8 dozen sandwiched cookies. The Salted Butter Caramel Cream (recipe below) will fill about half of the macarons shells. For a little variety fill the other half with chocolate ganache, raspberry jam, or lemon curd. Or double the Salted Butter Caramel Cream recipe.

Vanilla Macarons

Prepare a pastry bag with a large round tip. Line four baking sheets with silicon mats or parchment paper. Set aside.

Almond paste

2 1/2 cups (300 g) finely ground almonds (blanched or regular or almond flour)
2 3/4 cups (300 g) confectioner's sugar
1/2 vanilla bean
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 egg whites, at room temperature

Split vanilla bean in half with a sharp knife remove the seeds. Put the ground almonds, powdered sugar and the vanilla bean seeds in a food processor. Process until well combined and the almonds are very fine.

Put almond mixture in a mixing bowl, stir in the egg whites and vanilla until mixture forms a paste. Set aside.

Italian meringue

1 1/2 cups (300 g) plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup (100 ml) water
3 egg whites, at room temperature

Put 1 1/2 cups (300 g) granulated sugar and the water in a medium saucepan. Stir to combine. Bring to a gentle boil. Continue to cook until a candy thermometer reaches 230℉ (110℃). While the sugar syrup reaches temperature whip the egg whites and 2 tablespoons of sugar in a standing mixer with a whisk attachment until soft peaks form. When the sugar syrup reaches 230℉ (110℃) remove from the heat. Beat egg whites on high speed until stiff peaks form then reduce the mixer to slow/medium speed. Slowly pour the sugar syrup down the inside of the mixing bowl close to the edge so it doesn't splatter too much. Once all the sugar syrup is combined continue to mix increasing to medium/high speed until the meringue is stiff and glossy.

Stir 1/3 of the meringue into the almond paste to lighten it. Fold another 1/3 until combine followed by the final 1/3 of the meringue. Fold a few more times to slightly deflate the batter. The almond meringue mixture should be smooth yet firm and drip slowly from the spatula. Put in the prepared pastry bag and pipe neat rounds about 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) across. Whack each pan once or twice on the counter to flatten the macarons slightly and remove air bubbles.

Preheat oven to 350℉ (175℃).

Allow macarons to rest 20-30 minutes to develop a skin so they don't crack when they bake. Touch the top to check. It should feel dry and not sticky. Bake one sheet at a time in the lower third of the oven. Bake for 10-12 minutes. To release any steam that might crack the shells open the oven door twice during baking. The first time after 4 minutes, then again after four more minutes. By then the feet should be formed. The macarons will look dry on top when finished.

Remove from the oven. Carefully move the silicone baking mat or parchment paper onto a cooling rack. If you leave the macarons on the hot pans they will continue to bake. When cool remove from silicone baking mats or parchment paper. Fill with the caramel cream or desired filling.

The finished macarons should rest in the refrigerator overnight to soften slightly before serving. They will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. For longer storage allow to rest in the refrigerator for a few hours to soften, then freeze. To serve allow refrigerated or frozen macarons to come to room temperature for maximum flavor. Although it is often difficult to wait that long.



To make the caramel cream boil sugar and water until it turns amber colored.


Once the sugar syrup is a golden caramel color remove from the heat and add hot cream followed by softened butter and vanilla extract.



Cooled caramel is mixed with softened butter to make the caramel cream filling for the macarons.



The recipe makes a lot of macaron shells. Depending upon the size it will yield approximately 7-8 dozen sandwiched cookies. The Salted Butter Caramel Cream will fill about half of the macarons shells. For a little variety fill the other half with chocolate ganache, raspberry jam, or lemon curd. Or double the Salted Butter Caramel Cream recipe.

Salted Butter Caramel Cream

1/2 cup (125 ml) heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons light corn syrup
2 tablespoons (1 ounce/28 g) salted butter, softened
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup (4 ounces/113 g) salted butter, softened

Heat the cream in a small saucepan until just at a simmer. At the same time put the sugar, water, and corn syrup in a heavy-bottom saucepan. Stir to combine. Bring to a gentle boil over medium/high heat. Boil until mixture turns amber colored, about 5-8 minutes. Watch closely so it doesn't burn. Once it starts to color it will get dark quickly.

Once it has turned amber-colored remove from the heat and carefully stir in the hot cream using a long-handled wooden spoon. Be careful as the mixture will foam and bubble violently. Once the mixture has calmed down stir in the butter until completely melted and add the vanilla. Allow to cool completely.

Cover and refrigerate if not using when cooled. The caramel can be made to this point and refrigerated up to 4 days. To finish the caramel cream beat the butter until light add the caramel and continue beating until light and airy. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a round tip. Pipe caramel cream on one macaron shell and sandwich with another.

The finished macarons should rest in the refrigerator overnight to soften slightly before serving. They will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. For longer storage allow to rest in the refrigerator for a few hours to soften, then freeze. To serve allow refrigerated or frozen macarons to come to room temperature for maximum flavor.

Vanilla Macarons with Salted Butter Caramel Cream



Sunday, March 2, 2014

Lemon Beehives


When I entertain I often serve a few petit four-size desserts, so there is a variety of flavors to suit everyone's taste. Such was the case when Maddie and her team had a progressive dinner recently. My nephew, Ethan, had never heard of a progressive dinner, but was intrigued by the idea especially when he learned I was to do the dessert course. He loves all things sweet. Maddie requested Lemon Beehives which are a petit twist on lemon meringue pie. Their fun, small shape with swirled meringue resembles a beehive.

Sweet, tart, lemon filling rests on a crisp pastry base. Then the whole package is enrobed in fluffy meringue which is toasted by a kitchen torch or a real blow torch, which I prefer. My dear, departed husband gave me a true blow torch, from a hardware store many years ago with a wonderful flame-spreader attachment that is perfect for even toasting. Nothing is more fun than power tools in the kitchen. While I asked for the torch I don't think his intensions were entirely selfless, as we both loved to brûlée food. Unfortunately, I don't think you can get find the spreader attachments any more, but I prefer the power of a real blow torch to that of the more domestic versions made just for cooking.


The beehives look complicated, but they are surprisingly easy to make. The pastry bases, the lemon curd, and the finished beehives can be made up to 3 days ahead. Just allow the beehives to sit at room temperature 10-15 minutes before serving.







The finished lemon curd should be thick, yet light, and fluffy. Freeze in a covered glass container until solid. Allow the lemon curd to soften slightly before making the lemon curd balls to make it easier to scoop.




Although you don't necessarily see the base I like to use a crimped (2-inch/5 cm) cookie cutter because it makes a pretty edge, but a plain cookie cutter works fine. Or a small-rimmed glass will work, too.





A small (1-inch/2.5 cm) ice-cream scoop is perfect for making the lemon curd balls to rest on the pastry bases.


Divide the beehives onto two trays before piping and toasting the meringue to give yourself more room to work.

Store the finished beehives in a container deep enough to tightly cover the beehives without touching the tops.

Lemon Beehives
Adapted from Gale Gand's Just A Bite, by Gale Gand and Julia Moskin

Lemon Curd

3 eggs
3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar
Grated zest from 2 lemons
1/2 cup (125ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice (approximately 3 lemons)
6 tablespoons (3 ounces/90 g) unsalted butter, cold and cut in pieces

Pastry Bases
approximately 20-24 (2-inch/5 cm) bases

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60 g) unsalted butter, cold, cut in pieces
1 cup (140 g) all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 egg yolk
1/4 cup (58 g) sour cream or crème fraîche

Meringue

4 egg whites, at room temperature
1/2 cup (100 g) granulated sugar
pinch of salt

To make the lemon curd - beat eggs and sugar in a mixer with a whisk attachment until light and fluffy. While the eggs are beating bring a few inches of water to a simmer in a saucepan. Once the eggs and sugar are thick and light add the lemon juice and zest. Put the bowl over the simmer water (don't let it touch the water) and stir with a whisk until the curd is very thick. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter a piece at a time until all the butter is incorporated. Transfer to a glass container allow to cool. Cover tightly and freeze until solid or overnight. Can be made up to 3 days ahead.

To make the pastry bases - put the butter, flour, and salt in a mixing bowl of a standing mixer with a paddle attachment. Mix until the ingredients look sandy. In a small bowl mix the egg yolk and sour cream or crème fraîche add to the flour mixture. Mix just until combined. Gather the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least an hour and up to 3 days.

To bake the pastry bases - preheat the oven to 375℉ (190℃). Allow the dough to sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before rolling out on a lightly floured surface or between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Roll dough to 1/8-inch (.3 cm) thick. Cut into rounds with a 2-inch
(5 cm) cookie cutter. Put bases on an ungreased baking sheet and prick with a fork. (Use a silicon baking mate or parchment paper if you wish.) Bake for 12-15 minutes until golden brown. Cool on a rack. If not using immediately store in an airtight container in the freezer until ready to assemble the beehives.

To assemble the beehives - remove the lemon curd from the freezer and allow to sit for 10 minutes to soften slightly. Meanwhile arrange the bases in a container that is deep enough to cover the finished beehives without touching the tops and will fit in the freezer. Use more than one container if necessary. Using a small (1-inch/2/5 cm) ice-cream scoop place a ball of frozen lemon curd on each base. Return to the freezer until reading to pipe the meringue.

To make the meringue - beat the egg whites and pinch of salt until foamy. Gradually add the sugar until meringue is glossy and stiff. Put meringue in a pastry bag fitted with a small round pastry tip. Starting at the base swirl the meringue in a circle around the lemon curd ball until you reach the top creating a beehive effect. Using a kitchen torch, a blow torch, or a broiler toast the meringues until lightly browned all over. Store in the freezer until ready to serve. Allow to sit at room temperature about 10 minutes before serving. The finished beehives can be made up to three days ahead.

Note: Depending upon size of the lemon curd balls and the piping tip you use you may have some lemon curd and/or meringue left over.